THE WORLD'S whiskey
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LEADERS OF THE PACK
Events like the annual Kentucky Bourbon Festival, held each year around mid-September in Bardstown, KY, have also stimulated great interest in the history of the spirit and the people who make it. This year, a commemorative ceremony recognizing the contributions of the late Booker Noe, formerly the master distiller at Jim Beam and the creator of the company's four landmark boutique bourbons Booker's, Baker's, Basil Hayden's and Knob Creek. During the ceremony, a life-size bronze statue of Noe and his favorite dog will be unveiled on the Clermont Distillery grounds.
Photo courtesy
Heaven Hill
But while the new and unusual always get the press, it's the big dogs among American whiskey that are leading growth and innovation. Six of the seven leading straight whiskey brands Jack Daniel's, Jim Beam, Evan Williams, Maker's Mark, Ten High and Wild Turkey last year showed healthy growth, and the entire category rose 3.5 percent in 2004 in the U.S., more in volume than any of the other whiskey categories American blended, Canadian, Irish or Scotch.
The same story holds true among bars and restaurants: the new makes noise while the reliable core business thrives. More old style than culinary-focused are places like Delilah's in Chicago, fueled by owner Mike Miller's passion for whiskey and rock and roll. Delilah's is well known for its jukebox stocked with Hank Williams and James Brown as well as the 150-plus different bourbons, Tennessee, Irish and Scotch whiskies.
Photo courtesy
Wild Turkey
A few blocks down the street on North Lincoln is another malt den, the Red Lion, where artifacts of English pubs match the 50 plus whiskies, primarily Scotch, on sale.
New Orleans restaurants have always fueled whiskey consciousness, especially true today at newer places like the Bourbon House, where cocktails such as the Elmer Lee New Orleans Style Manhattan (Buffalo Trace, Peychaud Bitters and sweet vermouth), Frozen Bourbon Milk Punch, and the New Fashioned (Knob Creek, seasonal fruit and Peychaud) are featured on the menu. Bartenders like Chris McMillian, a fifth generation New Orleanian and bartender at The Library Lounge at the Ritz Carlton, are steeped in cocktail lore and makes Sazeracs and Mint Juleps known all around town.
But one sure sign that American whiskey has penetrated to a new level of food consciousness is something you may have spotted at a local convenience store. Thanasi Foods recently announced after six months on the market the sale of the millionth bag of Jim Beam Original Kentucky Bourbon Soaked Sunflower Seeds, a snack food available in more than 25,000 retail locations. Like Jim Beam Original Kentucky Bourbon Soaked Beef Jerky, the seeds are made with Jim Beam as a primary flavor component, according to Thanasi. Can bourbon flavored corn chips be far behind?
Scotch Business
Bourbons and other straight American whiskies may be chugging along, but the story of Scotch is a bit more subdued. Blends are up a touch, as are malts, but the good news is that it's the pricier, more sophisticated Scotches that are growing.
But that can be a double-edged sword. While two new whisky companies from Scotland Compass Box, led by the ingenious John Glazer; and Jon, Mark & Robbo's (JMR) Easy Drinking Whisky Company launched last month in the U.S. with three whiskies have focused on demystifying and simplifying Scotch for novice consumers, none of the major companies have really succeeded in turning the decade's driving force behind beverage alcohol consumption increases -- the cocktail -- to their use.
Perhaps they should look closer to home. In Scotland and England, whisky cocktails have been given a new life, as modern bartenders look for flavor profiles that will stand out. UK-based Whisky Magazine recently completed its annual Cocktail Challenge, in which bartenders compete to make the best-received bourbon, single malt and blended Scotch concoction.
Winners this year included drinks made using a Scottish candy with cloves and orange bitters, one with Chartreuse and rosemary, and a highly recommended refresher using peach purée, amaretto and peach bitters. U.S. bartenders up to the challenge might be able to sell more Scotch if equally encouraged.
For more about the magazine, go to www.whiskymag.com.
Mini Gaspary
Winner, single malt cocktail
(adapted from recipe by Michael Perron)
2 oz. Glenfiddich 12 Year Old
1/2 oz. Green Chartreuse
1 oz. Benedictine
dash Peychaud bitters
rosemary
Mix bitters, Benedictine and Glenfiddich with lots of ice. Add Green Chartreuse and rosemary. Pour into Old-Fashioned glass half filled with ice.
Girvan Dram
Winner, blended Scotch cocktail
(adapted from recipe by Paul McDonald)
2 oz. Grants
1 oz. mix made from Scottish tablet and water (see below)
pinch cloves
dash orange bitters
Add all ingredients to cocktail shaker. Shake and pour into Martini glass.
(Scottish tablet is a very sweet, semi-soft confection, a cross between toffee and fudge, made from white sugar, milk, butter, sweetened condensed milk and vanilla; soft toffee or maple fudge may be a suitable replacement. Experiment with mixing water and confection to get a flavor profile you prefer.)
East Meets West Julep
Winner, bourbon cocktail
(adapted from recipe by Nidal Ramini)
2 oz. Woodford Reserve
fresh Pomegranate
pomegranate molasses
Lebanese honey
mint
Put fresh pomegranate seeds in a tall glass with mint and crush. Add Woodford and pomegranate molasses. Add crushed ice until full. Decorate with pomegranate seeds.
